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Schmaltz By Dan Gill,
Ethno-Gastronomist The
word schmaltz
is of High German origin and simply means [rendered] animal fat. Technically,
lard and beef tallow are schmaltz, but the word was adopted by early Ashkenazi
or European Jews and applied to poultry fats in general and specifically to
chicken, duck or goose fat. Since lard is forbidden and butter restricted,
schmaltz became the cornerstone of traditional Jewish cuisine and an
essential ingredient in many authentic dishes, such as matzo balls and potato
pancakes. Prior to the widespread use of vegetable oils and fats during the
twentieth century, schmaltz was used in place of butter and lard for frying
and as a spread for bread. It adds a depth and richness to most dishes that
cannot be obtained with vegetable fats. In fact, there are few authentic
Ashkenazi recipes that donÕt call for schmaltz. In
America, schmaltz also means Òoverly sentimentalÓ or ÒmushyÓ. Chicken fat was
held in such high regard by Jewish immigrants that merely the mention of
schmaltz evokes an emotional response and fond childhood memories. Jewish
comedians and performers popularized the term during the early days of radio
and television. When compared to beef tallow or lard, chicken and
turkey schmaltz is lower in saturated fats and higher in beneficial monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats and essential fatty
acids and is therefore healthier. Several years ago, I researched frying oils
and came to the conclusion that, when heated and especially when used for
frying, animal fats are actually safer and less detrimental to our health
than vegetable fats (in general) because they are more stable and donÕt break
down into dangerous components as readily. As a result, we use good old beef
tallow in our deep fat fryers. For the rest of the story, visit our web page
and read Praise the Lard & Pass the Scrapple as published in the
January – February 2008 issue of Pleasant Living. We
make and use a lot of turkey schmaltz at Something Different. We brine and
smoke large turkey breasts for sliced turkey and as a key ingredient in THE
Virginia Sandwich spread. Before brining we remove the backs and meaty
trimmings for stock and save the neck fat for schmaltz and gribenes (cracklings) –
the tasty brown bits left after the fat and skin is rendered. We use turkey
stock as a base for many of our soups. After the stock is quick-chilled, we
skim the fat from the top and render it along with the neck fat. Though it is
usually not displayed for sale, we always have a supply of turkey schmaltz on
hand and can sell a limited amount. Schmaltz
is relatively easy to make at home, but does require some attention. Fat and
skin trimmings are cut into small pieces and heated slowly until the fat
melts. The pan may be covered or a little water may be added during the
melting stage to prevent sticking and scorching. I make pure, unseasoned
schmaltz and add seasonings when I use it but often a little salt and some
aromatics, such as onions or apples, are added during the rendering process
for more flavor. Once the fat melts, heat is increased in order to boil off
the water contained in the tissues. All of the water must be boiled away or
the fat will become rancid. I use a thermometer and render all animal fats to
350¡ F. or until the cracklings are nicely browned. The rich and luxuriant amber-colored fat is then strained,
cooled and packed in airtight containers for storage. It will last for
several weeks on the counter, months in the refrigerator and years in the
freezer. Cracklings can be salted and eaten as a snack or saved to use in a
variety of dishes for additional flavor. I puree turkey cracklings in a
little coffee and add them to our gumbo to reinforce the dark flavors of
roux. Because
of the high proportion of unsaturated fatty acids, poultry fats are
relatively soft. Schmaltz is liquid at room temperatures, so it will not replace lard for flaky piecrusts and biscuits, but
it is a superior frying oil. It has a
relatively high smoking point and crisps and browns foods beautifully without
the odor of hot lard. We use a little in the frying pan as a starter oil when
searing or braising meats and it is our preferred fat for sautŽing onions and
frying potatoes or eggs. Covering cooked meat with properly rendered fat to
exclude oxygen and microorganisms is among the oldest methods of
preservation. The French perfected this method with duck or goose confit.
Pork sausage was preserved in a similar manner by frying the patties, packing
them in stoneware crocks and covering them with hot, rendered lard. Though
maligned in recent years by mainstream medicine and misguided dietitians, fat
is an essential element in our diets. Quality fats are necessary for good health
and make food taste better. As with other nutrients, fats should be chosen
wisely and consumed in moderation, but not avoided. © Dan Gill - Published
in Pleasant Living July – August Õ11 Something Different Country Store and Deli More Blurbs
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