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Barbecue
101 Part IV-B: Seasoning Methods If
you do it right, you donÕt need sauce By
Dan Gill Barbecue
and smoked meats are normally seasoned before they go on the smoker. Most
folks use brines and dry-rubs for flavor development, but the practice
actually evolved for food-safety reasons and is a holdover from curing
techniques. Making traditional barbecue and smoked foods involves keeping
meat, poultry or fish in the Òdanger zoneÓ and in a low-oxygen environment
for many hours; ideal conditions for the growth of unfriendly microbes. Dry
rubs and brines contain salt, sugar and spices that can retard microbial
growth. Cold smoking for prolonged periods at temperatures below 100¡F can
actually foster growth of the dread and deadly C. botulinum bacterium;
therefore, Òcuring saltsÓ containing nitrates and nitrites are often added to
brines and dry-rubs for cold smoked (uncooked) sausages, fish, and cured
meats but are neither needed nor recommended for barbecue or smoke cooking. Brines were initially used to ÒpickleÓ and preserve meats, fish and
vegetables. Salt was added to water until it would float a potato or fresh egg, and then the meat
was soaked until it absorbed sufficient salt to preserve it. Fresh eggs were
specified because stored eggs, such as those available commercially, have
larger air pockets and float at lower salinities. Saturated brines were also
used to Òstrike downÓ fish and meat before they were packed in dry salt to
keep. We now use much weaker brines to flavor meats, fish and poultry and to
prepare them for slow cooking. It is still salt that does the work and makes
it a brine, but we now add other things to develop more flavor such as
buttermilk, herbs and spices and sugar or molasses. Some brine recipes call
for soft drinks because they contain water-soluble flavorings, which can add
an interesting dimension, and sweeteners to balance the saltiness of the
brine. Avoid any soft drinks containing high fructose corn syrup. You may
have to look around, but there are some brands that still use real cane sugar
- notably Royal Crown, NEHI, and some bottlers of Dr. Pepper. Fish sauces, such as
Nuok Mam or Worcestershire, also add an interesting dimension. Always taste
your brine before adding the meat; it should be salty but pleasant. Turkeys
and large cuts of meat are generally brined overnight, whereas smaller pieces
and chicken parts can be brined in a few hours. Dry rubs containing salt work just the same as brines except that there
is no additional liquid to dilute meat juices. Herbs and spices applied to the surface stay there and
contribute to flavor development during the cooking process. When applied to
the moist surfaces of raw meat, salt attracts free moisture from the tissues
and dissolves or dissociates into charged atoms of sodium (positive) and
chlorine (negative), which can then penetrate tissues taking along water
soluble flavorings. This process accelerates as meat warms, therefore meat
can either be dry rubbed and refrigerated overnight or left out at room
temperature for a few hours. Slathers composed mostly of plain old yellow mustard may be used to coat
meat prior to rubbing or just before cooking. Prepared mustard contributes
flavor and acts as an emulsifier to reduce surface oils, thereby allowing
rubs to adhere and penetrate better and allowing bastes to coat the meat
evenly without beading. Since I baste Kicken Chicken during the final cooking
stages, I use a mustard slather just before it goes on the pit. Marinades may be useful when grilling or braising smaller pieces of meat,
but are of little value in barbecue. Marinades are generally composed of
oils, herbs and acids (vinegar or fruit juice). Though vinegar and oil
mixtures may release some fat-soluble flavor compounds from herbs and spices,
they donÕt carry them into meat tissues and therefore flavor only the
outside. Marinades are most effective with thin cuts, such as steaks or
sliced meats. Acids and vegetative tenderizers, such as enzymes found in
papaya, pineapple and ginger, are often added but must be used with caution.
If left on too long they will make meat mushy. Also, as meat becomes more
acidic, salt has less effect on protein, therefore salt should be restricted
in acidic marinades. Injections of salt, water, seasonings and flavor enhancers, which would not
normally or readily penetrate into meat, may be inserted deep into muscle
tissue with syringes or meat pumps. Several commercial products are available
and are used extensively and successfully in competition, though seldom by
hobbyists. One product that is popular on the competition circuit contains
hydrolyzed soy protein, partially hydrogenated soybean, cottonseed and peanut
oils, sodium phosphates, mono sodium glutamate, autolyzed yeast extract,
disodium inosinate and guanylate and xanthan gum. The
turkey industry has been selling Òflavor enhancedÓ and Òwater addedÓ product
since the 1960Õs when market researchers realized that most consumers tend to
overcook poultry, ending up with dry breast meat. The solution was to Òquick
brineÓ by injecting a saline solution into the breast so that it would remain
relatively moist even if overcooked. Unfortunately, this nefarious practice
is now spreading to the red meat industry and consumers have to read the
labels on packaged steaks and pork roasts to avoid buying flavored water at
meat prices. Caveat emptor! Vacuum tumbling in brine or marinade is gaining in popularity in some restaurants
and meat markets. As the name implies, meat is placed in a drum along with a
flavoring liquid. A vacuum is applied as the drum rotates and the meat
tumbles. When the vacuum is released, liquid is sucked deep into the tissues.
The tumbling action massages the meat breaking down and releasing some
protein components and increasing tenderness. As with injection, this is a
water-added (up to 20%) product sold to gullible consumers at inflated
prices. As a confirmed Neanderthal cook, I prefer to adulterate my meat at
home, thank you very much. Basting is the most misunderstood and misused of all seasoning methods.
Bastes have two specific roles during the cooking process. First, water and
vinegar add moisture to the surface of meat, thereby cooling and slowing the
cooking rate through increased evaporation. Bastes often contain oils, which
regulate the rate of evaporation, thus extending the cooling effect. Although
bastes may be applied at any time, they are best applied during the second
stall or after the meat reaches about 160¡F and most of the internal moisture
has migrated out and evaporated. Dry surfaces may approach the temperature of
the pit or oven. Control of the cooking rate allows more time for collagen to
break down before the bark dries too much and overcooks. The second role is
to add ingredients that enhance bark formation and flavor through Maillard
browning reactions. Therefore, sugar and ketchup are often included. If the
meat was dry-rubbed or brined, then very little salt is needed in the basting
liquid. Care must be taken during these latter stages as sugar from rubs or
bastes can burn easily, resulting in bitter bark. Other seasonings including
mustard may be added to obtain a specific flavor profile. Contrary to popular
belief, basting does not add moisture to meat; the cooking process expels
moisture regardless of the environment. You can boil or steam meat until it
is so dry that it tastes like cardboard. Glazes are used primarily to
improve and protect appearance and are usually applied to hot meat just
before or after it is removed from the pit. Generally high in some form of
sugar, glazes require sufficient heat to melt, or even caramelize, but they
burn easily. Used carefully and correctly, glazes coat the surface with a shiny
layer, enhancing the appearance of moistness. If
all else fails, reach for a bottle of that thick, sweet, red sauce and
disguise any shortcomings. (c)
Dan Gill 4-08 Published
in Pleasant Living magazine May - June 2008 Previous: Barbecue
101 Part IV-A: Seasonings
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